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On my last functioning day in Turkey (before my tummy went into turmoil) I did the thing that every Cappodochia visitor must do, or explain why not: a balloon ride! But which company to choose? Longtime expat, Ruth Lockwood of Tribal Collections strongly recommended Royal Balloons. She should know! And she was right.

I chose the 1 1/2 hour ride and was glad I did. To really appreciate the majestic landscape, it’s important to give the pilot enough time to take you into the valleys around Goreme. After all, it’s a balloon, not a plane, and can only drift with the wind. At Royal Balloons, the pilot carefully chooses the launching pad to take advantage of the wind. That’s not necessarily true in other companies as I noticed several dozen balloons launching from the same place. We were a little out of the way and that was a good thing.

Now here is why you want to get away from the crowd. This is “red valley”. Aptly named.

Our basket had 12 people which was a good amount. You climb into your little corner and prepare to be awestruck as you float and drift, rise and fall, the only sound the whooshing of the fiery air-heater.

And this is how close you get into the valleys. You can see that these rocks have been worked on over the centuries, often used as storehouses.

Finishing up in the famous “love valley”.

I was delighted!

Afterward, there was the traditional champagne toast, plus pictures. I couldn’t resist a picture of David, our Australian pilot, posing with these four brothers from Boston who look ready for their own TV series.

I worried that five nights in Cappodochia might be a little too much time in Goreme, Cappodochia but I had no choice given the flight schedules. It turned out to be the best decision of the trip! I can see why some people fly in and decide never to fly out for it is truly one of the earth’s most astonishing landscapes. Here is the sight that greeted me when I opened the door to my “cave” in Sunset Cave Hotel:

Neither words nor pictures can do justice to seeing those colorful balloons rise over the silent landscape of misshapen volcanic rock but, trust me, it’s magical. There’s no place like it.

My day’s goal was visiting the Open Air Museum of Goreme but mostly I just gaped, awestruck by the strange rocks like this

Next was the Goreme Open Air Museum a (hot) mile walk from town but a must see for the churches cut into the volcanic rock and adorned with 12th and 13th-century frescoes. It’s part of a vast monastic complex.

The following day I signed up for the “Green Line” tour wih about 10 other people and our darling young guide, Estra, who, by the way, was the first female guide I’d seen outside Istanbul.

Our first stop was the Derinkuyu Underground City. The city stretched down 18 levels although we only visited the first six by making our way through narrow passages and cramped tunnels. One of 200 underground cities in the region, this one could shelter 20,000 people plus their livestock. It was first built by the Phrygians in the 8th to 7th centuries BC and later used by the Christians.

Next up was a short hike through the lush Ihlara Valley followed by lunch at Belisirma right on the river. I chose the river trout and suspect it was the cause of a week’s worth of tummy trouble.

After lunch, it was back to the rocks! Give a monk a chisel and see what happens. It’s the Selime Monastery, a huge monastery complex carved into the rocks. There were so many strange nooks and crannies, it’s easy to understand why the complex was approached to be the site of the first Star Wars flick (permission denied)

The glorious day finished with a peek at Pigeon Valley, so-called because early folk built dovecotes there to maintain the pigeons that were vital for communication.

New rule: When visiting one of the cruise industry’s sacred spots, wait until the season is well and truly finished.

Our overly jocular guide assured us that we were lucky to encounter “only” one cruise ship but Ephesus was still jammed with sweaty tourists. Mary’s House was a zoo. I wished for fewer visitors on the “Wishing Wall”. Others wished for “sleep”.

Still, the visit sparked my interest in the time and place where Artemis ceded to Mary and the earliest Christians set up shop in the heart of the Roman empire. Life was good in Epheses: indoor hot and cold running water, indoor latrines, servants, lots of parties for Artemis and her god friends, rich and famous visitors, the finest artists. It was the New York of the Roman Empire.

My hotel Jimmys Place, had a comprehensive collection of historical articles. A tranquil visit to the St Jean Basilica drifted me back to Biblical times. The 15th century Isa Bey mosque right next door was also a haven.

It’s a special travel thrill to board a ferry in the chill of early morning just after sunrise, heading out to a new destination.

Turkish buses are great! Air travel should be so comfy. The price includes an attendant who brings drinks and snacks. The ride along the sea was pretty bit after eight hours enough is enough.

I love my deluxe double at Jimmys Place.