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Chicago

Global Traveller Blog Posted on November 9, 2019 by JeanneNovember 26, 2019

October 8 So rather than stay in central Chicago (so expensive!) we chose the Pilsen neighborhood. Originally built to accommodate central European immigrants, Pilsen began attracting Mexican immigrants in the mid-20th century. Now, it’s slowly gentrifying and has become known as an artsy “alternative” place with a smattering of galleries amid the Mexican restaurants and bodegas.     Unfortunately the above restaurant was terrible!     Our AirBnB was in a building clearly intended for immigrants: high ceilings, large eat-in kitchen and no closets. The bathroom was clearly a late-addition; the closet in the hall had once served that purpose. The combination of Mexican and “hipster” in the neighborhood made for some odd gaps. Fresh fruit was non-existent which, I later realized, seems to be a feature of life outside major urban centers. Also we walked all over trying to find a loaf of bread for breakfast. Forget about the bodegas. We wound up in a vegan bakery of all places that sold us some sort of sweet rolls. October 9 Time to explore Chicago! I thought a quick trip to the tourist office might sort us out with maps, public transport, events, recommended activities. One of the many reasons … Continue reading →

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Chicago to Portland on Amtrak

Global Traveller Blog Posted on November 9, 2019 by JeanneNovember 26, 2019

October 10-12 So what is it like taking Amtrak? Pleasant and relaxing. Kathie and Diane opted for a room which is cozy, to put it nicely. Although it theoretically slept three, I think that two adults and a child would be comfortable. Three adults–not so much. They got a private shower and toilet plus all included meals in the dining car. I opted for coach, at a fraction of the price and I found it comfortable enough. The seats reclined to have a leg rest and a foot rest. It would be comparable to business class on an airline. The train was not crowded which meant that I had two seats to myself. The cafe car sold drinks and snacks but the first night I polished off the remains of the Chicago deep-dish pizza we had ordered for lunch. There were plenty of toilets and even a “ladies lounge” with sinks and seats to change and wash up. Then there’s the sightseeing car which is a comfortable and convivial way to watch the passing scenery from the huge glass windows on each side. As we left Union Station in mid-afternoon, we only had a few hours of daylight left. We … Continue reading →

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Portland

Global Traveller Blog Posted on November 10, 2019 by JeanneNovember 26, 2019

October 12-14 We pulled into downtown Portland around noon.Time for lunch! We had a decent meal at a downtown bar-restaurant and then looked around a little. Powell’s Books was a must–the world’s largest independent bookstore. Unfortunately my carry-on only plane ticket didn’t allow room for a major book shop but it was fun to look around. Afterwards, we headed to a weed shop with a friend of Diane’s who needed to re-up his supply. It was so clean and wholesome; things have changed a great deal since I left the States! The fall colors were in full bloom and I was impressed with the elaborate Halloween decorations. And the spectacular fall colors: With the light fading, I headed to Hawthorne Boulevard for a look at the vintage shops, boutiques and cafes. I was particularly impressed with the New Seasons grocery store. As kale is basically unavailable in France, I had to buy a kale salad takeout which turned out to be delicious. It took me awhile to figure out the bus system but eventually I caught the correct bus back to our AirBnB just as it was starting to rain. The weather improved somewhat the following day which was great … Continue reading →

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Portland to LA on Amtrak

Global Traveller Blog Posted on November 10, 2019 by JeanneDecember 1, 2019

October 14-15 The Portland to LA route on Amtrak is called the Coast Starlight and it’s a beauty. It’s also a popular route and was significantly more crowded than the prior train. This train also has a very different vibe from the cross country train. The wary attendants treat us like dangerous lunatics which is not fair to the many peaceful lunatics on this train. There was the guy with the long bamboo pole that was not actually a cane…the woman who needed to share her personal hygiene issues that related to her bipolar disorder…the woman seated next to me who spoke in nonsensical phrases and abruptly left the train along with the sleeping bag Jim had lent us. . .the guy who lost a friend in some famous mudslide here and still could not understand why anyone would talk about climate change. The only person with her head screwed on straight was a transgender woman who kept me absorbed in conversation for about six hours. An aspiring labor lawyer, she had moved to Lacrosse, Wisconsin “for love” and assured me that there was an artistic, alternative scene there. I found that curious since I boarded the prior train in Chicago … Continue reading →

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Venice Beach

Global Traveller Blog Posted on November 23, 2019 by JeanneDecember 1, 2019

October 15-18 We arrived at Union Station, Los Angeles late on the 15th after substantial Amtrak delays. It’s a gorgeous Art Deco train station recently renovated and lit up. Checked into the Samesun Venice Beach Hostel which is only steps from the beach. It was a super-friendly place with a great included breakfast. We took an entire dorm room for ourselves.   And made sure to wash our breakfast dishes after! We were awesome. I loved the hippie vibe of Venice beach and the water was much warmer than I expected. Unfortunately Muscle Beach was closed for renovations though.     The “boardwalk” had lots of souvenir shops especially around Muscle Beach but the scene calmed down as we walked further north. Although I was informed that Venice Beach was gentrifying and many long-time residents were getting pushed out, I felt it could have been much worse. It retained the aura of a slightly ramshackle beach town.   Even if you couldn’t eat the local fish. After a wonderful lunch thanks to Fred and Beth, we dipped our feet in the water! And in the late afternoon, I took a walk around Venice’s little canal network. Although the “boardwalk” had … Continue reading →

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