June 5 The first Pole I met was a rather dour taxi driver who shepherded me to the Hotel Hetman in the Praga district slightly northeast of the town center and across the Vistula river. Are Poles dour, I wondered? … Continue reading →


A cabaret owner immortalized in stone sits on Krakow’s main square June 11 Woke up in the Hotel Cristal, Bialystok and enjoyed yet another splendid breakfast buffet replete with fish pat├ęs, herring, potato pancakes and more. Diet be damned! I … Continue reading →


June 16 After a last longing look at Krakow’s central square, I hopped my train for the 8-hour trip to Gdansk. I booked a private apartment, Best Stay Old Town Center on a residential street that ran just parallel to … Continue reading →