The train from Nice to Rome was a pleasure. The nine and a half hours passed quickly with changes at Ventimiglia and Genoa. It was a clear sunny day and the panorama unfolding outside my window was relaxing. I had placed my suitcase in the designated baggage compartment at the end of the train car, not far from my seat, and checked on it frequently. And yet. . .when we arrived in Rome and I went to fetch it, the compartment was empty! My stomach did a flip-flop. Yes, I had all documents, money and electronics with me but only the clothes on my back. Suddenly I was no longer tired or hungry but angry and apprehensive. I immediately notified the nearest conductor who called over the shift supervisor. She took detailed information, including passport number, address and email, and then directed me to the polizia in the train station. The cop who opened the door seemed furious that I was there and informed me that the “system was blocked” and no reports could be taken. He couldn’t wait to get rid of me and could not have been more unpleasant. He acted as though I was interrupting an important … Continue reading →

Although I picked up the bare clothing necessities yesterday, clearly I needed to change my shirt and slacks every so often! Also, I needed to prepare for the warmer temperatures of Sardinia. Fortunately Rome’s historic center was teeming with stores, mostly chain stores unfortunately. So I combined visits to the glorious Bernini fountains with a tedious but necessary stop at Zara. I’ll never get that hour of life back. For dinner I continued my studies of cacio e pepe at Ristorante Pizzeria da Michele right in the neighborhood.

For my last day I decided to check out Trastevere, immensely loved by tourists. Too loved. Shop, pizzeria, trattoria, shop, pizzeria, trattoria, shop, pizzeria. . .I wasn’t impressed. Trastevere is a vivid example of the destructive power of AirBnB. Almost nothing remained of the old neighborhood except the magnificent Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere. There was a wedding that day which meant the visit was limited. The wedding gift was parked right outside: a gleaming red Ferrari with a bow on top. A far cry from Trastevere’s working class roots. Much more charming was the bridge linking the Tiber island with the river banks and the stunning riverside promenade. Later, I picked up a new suitcase from the “Coveri Collection”. Have you heard? It’s the latest accessory and only costs €38. Spoiler alert: it lasted until the end of the trip. Then on to Civitavecchia and the overnight ferry to Cagliari, Sardinia.