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The Great Train Robbery

Global Traveller Blog Posted on October 12, 2021 by JeanneOctober 29, 2021

The train from Nice to Rome was a pleasure. The nine and a half hours passed quickly with changes at Ventimiglia and Genoa. It was a clear sunny day and the panorama unfolding outside my window was relaxing. I had placed my suitcase in the designated baggage compartment at the end of the train car, not far from my seat, and checked on it frequently. And yet. . .when we arrived in Rome and I went to fetch it, the compartment was empty! My stomach did a flip-flop. Yes, I had all documents, money and electronics with me but only the clothes on my back. Suddenly I was no longer tired or hungry but angry and apprehensive. I immediately notified the nearest conductor who called over the shift supervisor. She took detailed information, including passport number, address and email, and then directed me to the polizia in the train station. The cop who opened the door seemed furious that I was there and informed me that the “system was blocked” and no reports could be taken. He couldn’t wait to get rid of me and could not have been more unpleasant. He acted as though I was interrupting an important … Continue reading →

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Roman Colosseum

Easing into Rome

Global Traveller Blog Posted on October 13, 2021 by JeanneOctober 29, 2021

First order of business–a toothbrush! Then, the local polizia. I got out of the hotel early with instructions on how to find the police station. The Casa S. Giuseppe di Cluny was in the Monti neighborhood, convenient to the train station, the historic center and the Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore. The majestic basilica fortified me for the coming day. The police report duly filed, I headed to the Trenitalia office to tackle the paperwork there. The reimbursement should happen in one to three months. As one of the kindly Cluny Sisters remarked “Always quick to take the money. Very slow to give the money”. Along the way, I picked up some socks, underwear, toiletries and a down jacket. Rome was chilly! Although rattled, I had already booked a tour of the Forum, Colosseum and Palatine Hill for mid-afternoon and was determined to concentrate on the Roman story.   Dinner was at a local joint, Pescetto Fish Ristorante, which served up imaginative fish balls and fish lasagna at a reasonable price.

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Trevi Fountain

Rome: Sights and Shops

Global Traveller Blog Posted on October 14, 2021 by JeanneOctober 29, 2021

Although I picked up the bare clothing necessities yesterday, clearly I needed to change my shirt and slacks every so often! Also, I needed to prepare for the warmer temperatures of Sardinia. Fortunately Rome’s historic center was teeming with stores, mostly chain stores unfortunately. So I combined visits to the glorious Bernini fountains with a tedious but necessary stop at Zara. I’ll never get that hour of life back. For dinner I continued my studies of cacio e pepe at Ristorante Pizzeria da Michele right in the neighborhood.

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Amphitheater in Ostia Antica.

Ostia Antica

Global Traveller Blog Posted on October 15, 2021 by JeanneOctober 29, 2021

Ostia Antica was a great way to get out of the bustling Eternal City and step back to the Roman days. The ruins were far more extensive than I had expected and presented an evocative display of how upper middle-class Romans lived. The transport connections were far more straightforward than the rats nest of buses connecting Rome’s sprawling neighborhoods. Every day was spa day in ancient Rome. Why don’t we have public baths? Why are we relegated to lonely showers? Bathing should be an enjoyable public ritual. Free baths, free public entertainment: life could be good in ancient Rome. Temples, tombs, shops, villas, warehouses–and very few tourists. I poked around most of the day and then headed to the trendy Monti neighborhood, northeast of the Forum for a Prosecco and–more shopping! This time it was fun. Monti is the hipster neighborhood with vintage and used-clothing shops lining the cobblestone streets. It was the perfect place to round out my little wardrobe.    

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Tiber river

Trastevere and the Tiber

Global Traveller Blog Posted on October 16, 2021 by JeanneOctober 29, 2021

For my last day I decided to check out Trastevere, immensely loved by tourists. Too loved. Shop, pizzeria, trattoria, shop, pizzeria, trattoria, shop, pizzeria. . .I wasn’t impressed. Trastevere is a vivid example of the destructive power of AirBnB. Almost nothing remained of the old neighborhood except the magnificent Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere. There was a wedding that day which meant the visit was limited. The wedding gift was parked right outside: a gleaming red Ferrari with a bow on top. A far cry from Trastevere’s working class roots. Much more charming was the bridge linking the Tiber island with the river banks and the stunning riverside promenade. Later, I picked up a new suitcase from the “Coveri Collection”. Have you heard? It’s the latest accessory and only costs €38. Spoiler alert: it lasted until the end of the trip. Then on to Civitavecchia and the overnight ferry to Cagliari, Sardinia.

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