It’s all about sultans, concubines, eunuchs, tiled harems and a certain jewel- encrusted dagger at the Topkapi Palace-Museum. Surprising number of middle Eastern couples in full beard and burqa reminded of the good old days when the only men women saw were eunuchs.

Circumstances demanded that I change hotels during which I learned a series of unhappy facts about Istanbul taxis. 1) They cannot be found when it rains. 2) If found, they refuse any trip shorter than 10km. 3) Trips shorter than 10km become trips longer than 10km as you discover Istanbul together because 4) They may have no idea where they are going. After setting up in hotel Byza and arranging the next leg of my trip, I thanked Allah in the great Suleymaniye mosque, strolled through some nether neighborhoods and am now relaxing over tea and nargilah (hooka) in the Corlulu Alipasa Medresesi.