October 12

It’s all about appointments here. Forget about just showing up to visit something. No siree. Fortunately it’s off-season so I can schedule a visit the same day. I made a noon appointment for Palau de la Musica which gave me time to figure out the Metro and buy a card.

The Metro here is pretty great unlike, say, Rome last year where the lines just weren’t extensive enough to use for visiting the city. Any time you have to rely on a city’s bus system you’re in deep trouble. It’s always complicated.

Although I booked a guided tour I was dismayed when the tour started off in Catalan. Uh oh. Should have had that second cup of coffee before booking the tour. Turned out it was a mistake on the website. They quickly set me up with an audio tour and I was off. Of course it was eye popping. There was so much to look at. It reminded me of those baroque churches in Nice crammed with carotids. I was glad I opted for a tour rather than a performance as the colors were meant to be appreciated in daylight.

I wasn’t far from Catalunya square which was throbbing to Heritage Day celebrations. Folk dancers from Spain’s former colonies strutted their stuff to the music of their homelands.

Then the highlight of the day: Sacrada Familia. I had no idea the interior would be suffused with the most heavenly light: blue green to the east; orange to the west. The sunlight poured through the western windows illuminating every one and everything in an orange glow. It was a deeply spiritual place as the columns rose like giant redwoods to the ceiling only barely perceived. For once a major world highlight lived up to it’s billing. Didn’t get to climb the tower though! Although I had booked the towers were closed for the holiday.

Because of the holiday Calle Carera Bresa was quiet so I returned to my local joint for a plate of fried squid and a tinto.