Sanliurfa, often simply referred to as Urfa, is a city steeped in history and rich in cultural heritage. Located in southeastern Turkey, Sanliurfa is known as the “City of Prophets” due to its associations with several key figures from various religious traditions, including Abraham (Ibrahim), Job (Ayoub), and Elijah (Ilyas). Often used as a base for visiting the archaeological sites of Gobekli tepe (15km northeast of the city) and Karahan tepe, there’s also plenty to discover in ancient Sanliurfa. It’s a small town and easy to get around without a vehicle.

(Read about my stay in Sanliurfa)

History

Sanliurfa’s history stretches back over 12,000 years, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Its early history is closely linked with the Neolithic period, most notably through the archaeological site of Göbekli Tepe, which dates back to around 9600 BCE and predates Stonehenge by several millennia.

In antiquity, Sanliurfa was known as Edessa and became a significant cultural and religious center under various empires. It was first mentioned in historical records as a settlement during the Akkadian Empire around 2500 BCE. Over the millennia, Urfa came under the rule of several great empires, including the Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, and eventually the Islamic caliphates.

Sanliurfa’s moniker as the “City of Prophets” is due to its connections with several biblical and Quranic figures. The most famous of these is the prophet Abraham, who is believed to have been born in a cave in Urfa. According to Islamic tradition, Abraham was thrown into a fire by the tyrant Nimrod for rejecting idolatry and promoting the worship of one God. However, God turned the fire into water and the burning coals into fish, saving Abraham’s life. This miracle is commemorated at the site known as Bal?kl?göl, or the “Pool of Sacred Fish.”

Another prophet associated with Sanliurfa is Job, who is said to have lived in a cave near the city during his period of suffering. The Cave of Prophet Job is a popular pilgrimage site, and many people visit it to pray for patience and perseverance in the face of life’s difficulties.

One of the most notable periods in Sanliurfa’s history was during the rule of the Seleucid Empire when it was renamed Edessa. In the early Christian period, Edessa became one of the first cities to adopt Christianity, long before the Roman Empire officially embraced the religion. It was also a center of Syriac Christianity and was known for its theological schools and the production of manuscripts.

During the Islamic period, the city came under the rule of the Rashidun, Umayyad, and Abbasid caliphates. It later became part of the Seljuk Empire and then the Ottoman Empire in 1517. The name “Sanliurfa” was officially adopted in 1984, with “Sanli” meaning “glorious” in Turkish, in recognition of the city’s resistance during the Turkish War of Independence.

Today, Sanliurfa is a traditional Islamic town. Most (though not all) women wear a hijab (headscarf) and the Muslim call to prayer rings out 5 times daily. Sanliurfa is a dry town. No alcohol is served or available to purchase anywhere in town.

Things to Do in Sanliurfa

Explore Golbasi

Golbasi is an extensive park with lakes, pools, mosques and other structures of enormous religious significance. The area is a peaceful retreat in the heart of the city, with beautifully landscaped gardens and shaded walkways.

Balikli Göl (Pool of Sacred Fish)

Balikli Göl, also known as the Pool of Abraham, is one of Sanliurfa’s most iconic landmarks. According to local legend, King Nimrod was so angry that Abraham was destroying his idols that he tossed him into a pit of fire. But God turned the fire into water and the burning coals into fish which are still in this beautiful pool, Baliki Gol. The pool is home to thousands of sacred carp, which are considered holy. The pool is bordered by the Rizvaniye Vakfi mosque 

and the 13th-century Halil-ur-Rahman Mosque

Ayn-Zeliha Lake

Zeliha, the king’s daughter seeing the miracle in which Prophet Abraham was rescued from fire, accepted the invitation to Islam and rejected the claim that her father was God. Nimrod reacted with anger and threw his daughter into a fire. The King watched as her daughter burned to death.  A lake formed in the place where Zeliha fell and fish appeared in the lake. The place is called “the spring of Zeliha” or “the tears of Zeliha” (Zeliha’s Lake). The fish are not eaten because they also are believed to be holy.

Nearby is

The Cave of Prophet Abraham

Located near Balikli Göl is the Cave of Prophet Abraham is believed to be the birthplace of Abraham. According to tradition, when King Nimrod’s soothsayer informed him that he would have a child that would wipe out his religion and demolish his kingdom, he ordered all children to be killed. Nuna, the mother of Abraham, was pregnant when she learned of the king’s decree. As the day of delivery grew near, she hid in cave for protection. It was there that she gave birth to Abraham. After the delivery, she came secretly every day and suckled him. Tradition holds that a gazelle also came every day on the order of Allah and suckled him. Abraham stayed in the cave for years, only leaving when he was a 15 year- old boy. The cave is a place of pilgrimage for Muslims, Christians, and Jews alike. Inside the cave, visitors will find a small prayer area, and many people come here to offer prayers and seek blessings.

Mevlid i Halil Mosque

This mosque was once a pagan temple, then a Jewish synagogue, then a Christian church. It was converted into a mosque in 1523.

Climb up to Urfa Castle

Perched on a hill overlooking the city, Urfa Castle offers panoramic views of Sanliurfa and its surroundings. The castle’s origins are somewhat mysterious, with some historians suggesting it was first constructed by the Seleucids or Romans. What is known is that the current structure was heavily modified during the Byzantine and Islamic periods. The two large columns near the entrance are believed to date back to the reign of the Roman emperor Constantine.

The castle is visible from the park but it’s worthwhile to climb up for the views, especially around sunset.

Sanliurfa Archaeology Museum

For those interested in delving deeper into the region’s history, the Sanliurfa Archaeology Museum is a must-visit. The museum houses a vast collection of artifacts spanning from the Paleolithic era to the Ottoman period. The exhibit on Göbekli Tepe includes original artifacts from the site as well as detailed explanations of its significance. The highlight is the remarkable Urfa man which dates from around 9000BC. This life-size statue is considered the oldest life-sized sculpture of a human.

The museum also features displays on the city’s ancient history, including items from the Hittite, Assyrian, and Roman periods. Visitors can also see a variety of mosaics, coins, and inscriptions that provide insights into the cultural and economic life of ancient Urfa.

Explore the Bazaar

As one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited communities, wandering the ancient streets around the bazaar is a delight. The narrow streets crammed with fresh food and piles of spices is highly evocative of Abraham’s days.

Where to Eat in Sanliurfa

Cevahir Han

This cavernous restaurant is where everyone goes: locals and visitors alike. The menu is vast but heavily oriented to lamb which is the foundation of the local diet. Vegetarians should try the delicious chopped salad with pomegranate and the thin crust pizza called Lahmacun. Often referred to as “Turkish pizza,” Lahmacun is a thin, crispy flatbread topped with a mixture of minced meat (usually lamb or beef), tomatoes, onions, garlic, and a variety of spices. Although not traditionally topped with cheese, Cevahir han does serve a cheesy version in a nod to vegetarians.

Here’s a look at some of the other must-try local foods in Sanliurfa:

Urfa Kebab (Sis Kebap)

One of the most iconic dishes from Sanliurfa is the Urfa Kebab, which is a skewered meat dish made primarily from lamb or beef. Unlike its spicier cousin, the Adana Kebab, Urfa Kebab is milder but still richly flavored. The meat is minced and mixed with a blend of spices, including cumin, paprika, and black pepper, before being grilled over a charcoal fire. The kebabs are usually served with flatbread (often lavash), grilled vegetables, and a side of sumac-spiced onions. The simplicity of the dish allows the quality of the meat and the balance of spices to shine through, making it a staple in Urfa’s culinary scene.

 Ciger Kebabi (Liver Kebab)

Another popular kebab variety in Sanliurfa is Ciger Kebabi, or liver kebab. Lamb liver is cubed, seasoned with chili flakes and salt, and then skewered and grilled to perfection. The liver is tender and flavorful, and it’s usually served with a side of fresh herbs like parsley and mint, which help to balance the richness of the dish. Ciger Kebab? is a common breakfast food in Sanliurfa, particularly for those looking for a hearty start to the day.

Çig Köfte

Çig Köfte, meaning “raw meatball,” is a dish deeply associated with Urfa’s culinary heritage. Traditionally, it was made with raw minced meat, but today it is more commonly prepared without meat, using bulgur wheat, finely ground red pepper paste, and a mixture of spices such as cumin, pepper, and paprika. The mixture is kneaded until it becomes a smooth paste and is then shaped into small patties. Çi? Köfte is typically served wrapped in lettuce leaves or flatbread, accompanied by lemon wedges and pomegranate molasses, which add a tangy contrast to the spicy, chewy texture of the dish.

Bostana

Bostana is a refreshing salad that is particularly popular in the warmer months. The salad is made from finely chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and green peppers, all seasoned with lemon juice, olive oil, and pomegranate molasses. It’s typically garnished with fresh parsley and mint, which give it a vibrant flavor. Bostana is a perfect accompaniment to the rich and spicy dishes of Urfa, providing a light and tangy contrast.

 Borani

Borani is a dish that combines spinach with yogurt, garlic, and a mix of spices. It can be served as a side dish or a main course, depending on how it is prepared. In Urfa, borani is often enriched with ground meat, creating a more substantial dish. The spinach is sautéed with onions and garlic, then mixed with the yogurt and spices, and sometimes topped with a drizzle of melted butter infused with isot. The result is a creamy, tangy, and slightly spicy dish that pairs well with grilled meats or can be enjoyed on its own with bread.

When to Visit Sanliurfa

The best time to visit Sanliurfa, Turkey, largely depends on your preferences regarding weather and cultural events. Here’s a breakdown of what to expect during different seasons to help you choose the ideal time for your visit:

Spring (March to May)

Spring is one of the most pleasant times to visit Sanliurfa. Temperatures are moderate, ranging from 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F), making it comfortable for sightseeing and outdoor activities. The countryside around Sanliurfa, including the area around Göbekli Tepe, becomes lush and green, with wildflowers in bloom. This adds to the beauty of the landscapes. Spring is not peak tourist season, so you can enjoy the historical sites and cultural attractions without the large crowds that summer brings. Early spring can still be a bit chilly however, especially in the evenings, and there might be occasional rain showers.

Summer (June to August)

With longer daylight hours, you’ll have more time to explore the city and its surroundings. Summer is a time for festivals and events in Sanliurfa, including local music and dance performances. These events offer a deep dive into the region’s vibrant cultural life.

Summer in Sanliurfa can be very hot, with temperatures often exceeding 40°C (104°F). This can make outdoor activities, such as visiting Göbekli Tepe or walking around the city, quite challenging during the day. The summer months, particularly July and August, are peak tourist season, which means more crowds and potentially higher prices for accommodations.

Autumn (September to November)

Similar to spring, autumn offers mild temperatures, typically ranging from 20°C to 30°C (68°F to 86°F). This is ideal for exploring outdoor sites without the summer heat. Autumn is harvest time in the region, so you can enjoy fresh, local produce, especially in the markets. It’s also a great time to try seasonal dishes. As the summer crowds dwindle, autumn provides a quieter and more relaxed atmosphere for sightseeing. As autumn progresses, the days become shorter, giving you slightly less daylight for exploring.

Winter (December to February)

Winters in Sanliurfa are relatively mild compared to other parts of Turkey, with temperatures ranging from 5°C to 15°C (41°F to 59°F). This can be a comfortable time for exploring the city’s indoor attractions, such as museums and mosques.
Winter is the low season for tourism, which means you can find better deals on accommodations and have a more tranquil experience at the historical sites. While the weather is mild, it can also be unpredictable, with occasional rain. Some outdoor attractions might be less enjoyable during this time. Winter days are shorter, which means less time for sightseeing in daylight.

Is Sanliurfa Safe for Women Travellers?

Yes. I spent several days travelling alone in Sanliurfa and throughout the region without encountering any problems whatsoever. Harrassment is often linked to drinking and there’s none of that going on in Sanliurfa! It’s considered respectful to cover your head with a scarf when at a religious site and it’s obligatory to enter a local mosque. Many women on the streets cover their head but visitors are not expected to.

Where to Stay in Sanliurfa

Sanliurfa is an inexpensive destination with a wide variety of hotels at a reasonable price. I stayed at the Grand Babil Hotel for an extremely low price but there are better options. Unlike the (un) Grand Babil Hotel, most hotels will have personnel who speak English. Click to find hotels in Sanliurfa.