Barcelona Gothic Quarter
October 10 Checked into the sleek and modern Pension Peiro in the lively Poble Sec neighborhood. It’s an easy walk to everything. Tapas bars nearly at the doorstep. The convenient Parallel metro stop right down the street. I arrived on Flixbus around 8pm. Didn’t do much the first night except grab some fried squid and a glass of wine at a nearby tapas joint. Breakfast was not included so i picked up some ramen to accompany my coffee packets. At least the Pension had a kettle and cups! October 11 Got an early start to soak up the big city energy. And it was a beautiful day. I headed first to Las Ramblas, only a 15 minute walk away. I hadn’t been there since the eighties when it was lined with flower stalls. Now it’s mostly cafes. There were some tourists milling around of course but it wasn’t oppressively crowded. Then I wandered the streets of the Gothic Quarter starting with the handsome Plaza Real. There were surprises in every corner. Loved the Aragon Archives exhibit which showed the original document from Queen Isabel to Columbus thanking him for his service and showering him with gifts. Safe to say the … Continue reading →
Barcelona Architecture
October 12 It’s all about appointments here. Forget about just showing up to visit something. No siree. Fortunately it’s off-season so I can schedule a visit the same day. I made a noon appointment for Palau de la Musica which gave me time to figure out the Metro and buy a card. The Metro here is pretty great unlike, say, Rome last year where the lines just weren’t extensive enough to use for visiting the city. Any time you have to rely on a city’s bus system you’re in deep trouble. It’s always complicated. Although I booked a guided tour I was dismayed when the tour started off in Catalan. Uh oh. Should have had that second cup of coffee before booking the tour. Turned out it was a mistake on the website. They quickly set me up with an audio tour and I was off. Of course it was eye popping. There was so much to look at. It reminded me of those baroque churches in Nice crammed with carotids. I was glad I opted for a tour rather than a performance as the colors were meant to be appreciated in daylight. I wasn’t far from Catalunya square which … Continue reading →
Catalan Art
Started the day at the big Boqueria, truly a visual feast although I’ve learned that locals view it as way too touristy. I strolled through and picked up some empanadas for lunch later. Then on to the Museum of Catalan Art. My pension was close to the funicular that brought be up to leafy Montjuic park. Such a change from the hub of the city! And with such great views. As soon as I walked into the museum I knew I’d spend the day there. The building itself was grandiose with a vast domed entrance hall. These Catalans think highly of themselves. I started with the Romanesque collection, a style I wasn’t much familiar with. The angular faces and clean lines seemed so modern. The figures of the holy family and saints seemed to exude a spirituality that seemed to fade as greater naturalism took over in the 14th-16th centuries. The baroque and Renaissance collection was also impressive showcasing Velasquez, Rubens. By the time I tackled the Modern collection I was tuckered out but I like how it segued from Picasso and Miro to Republican propaganda during the Spanish Civil War and then in to Symbolism which is … Continue reading →
Tarragona : a Roman centre
I have to admit that when I stepped off the train in Tarragona I wondered if I had made a mistake. The buildings seemed so drab and the town seemed underpopulated in comparison to bustling Barcelona. “Where the people at?” was my first thought. The Hotel Pigal was wonderfully located with a convivial kitchen/dining room at the center. After an encouragingly warm welcome, I headed to the nearby covered market to nibble on some tapas and pick up breakfast for tomorrow. The people (now that I found them) were noticeably friendlier than in Barcelona where too much tourism had rubbed the shine off their personalities. October 15 Nothing makes me happier than filling up my day pack and setting out to explore a new city. It’s exhilarating. Of course I headed first to the Roman amphitheatre and was lucky enough to stumble on a public training session and show by the local Gladiator School. Yes, gladiator training is a thing and what a great workout! Did you know that there were women gladiators? I did not know that. The gladiator teacher gave a detailed rundown of gladiator work and it’s place in Roman society. What a hoot. I could … Continue reading →
Girona
October 18 Well I sure messed this one up. I wanted to get to Girona before noon but I couldn’t find the right trains at the right price. So I spent a couple of hours chilling in the Barcelona train station and arrived here at the immense and modern train station at 1:30. Maybe because I was tired I got hopelessly lost following Google maps, trudging around for nearly an hour before a taxi driver and the Pension Borras finally got me here. It should have been a 1O minute walk. I was exhausted, hot and hungry. Not a good start. I’m a big fan of Spanish trains though. The two that I took today were bullet trains running at around 200km/hour. So comfy and efficient. The scenery was like so many train rides in Europe. Fields, orchards, greenhouses and every so often some mysterious splotch of low buildings. Around them are odd machines, shipping containers or metal towers with tubes and pipes that may or may not emit smoke. It’s always in the middle of nowhere and often marked by a big sign with an unrecognizable name: Axxol! Crexxon! Spizzfor! Fertilizers? Farm equipment? Industrial supplies? Who knows. After recuperation … Continue reading →