The Prado
October 21
Continue reading →
Madrid Arrival
Pompeii

Before setting out I packed up as I needed to change accommodation from Avio Suite to Nice Stay. Fortunately it was in the same mosern building on Melisurgo street which had a number of B&Bs. Convenient!.
I pre-booked my ticket for Pompeii even though it wasn’t strictly necessary. I jumped on the Circumvesuviana a little after 8 and arrived at Pompeii in time for the opening at 9. There were only maybe 50 people at the entrance. Not too bad! I was stoked.
My friend Pietor insisted that the best approach was to go to the Villa of Mysteries right away but it took me some time to orient myself on the map.


Finally I found myself at the gate and paid the additional fee to visit Villa Diomedes and Villa of Mysteries. First up: Villa Diomedes, the luxury summer house just outside Pompeii.



And then the Villa of Mysteries which just floored me . Pietor was right; because it was the beginning of the day I was nearly alone.





I lost track of time contemplating these remarkable frescoes which I found moving, then somehow troubling and finally haunting.
Back in Pompeii I discovered even more stunning frescoes. Some, a little racy such as these in Vetti house.







Then the sculpture such as the faun, the original of which is in the Archaeology Museum.


The artistic quality of the works surprised me. I didn’t expect it.
Not to mention the mosaics.


And the public buildings








And then there were the smaller details: the public fountains, the outdoor food stalls with sunken ceramic pots to serve busy Romans in need of a quick bite. There were shops and bars, bakeries and brothels (I’m sure). And then one day the sky opened up and rained fire and rock and it all ended.

And finally after 5 1/2 hours I ended. I walked in the footsteps of the ancients. And walked. And walked. I put bandaids on my feet and walked some more. I left exhausted but happy. Then I twisted my ankle running to get the train back and was less happy.
Still I made it back to my room,

got some ice for the swelling and wondered what the Romans did for sore muscles. Probably drank wine.
Our Naples Neighborhood
October 23
We were still recuperating from yesterday plus Chiew was due to leave at the end of the afternoon. We decided on an easy day exploring our neighborhood on and around the Porto Marina.
We had a light lunch at the classy and incredibly busy Gambrinus coffee house.

We strolled the vast passages and hallways of the Palazzo Remake which was closed but offered a nice view over it’s park

And then wandered around the immense Piazza del Plebiscito which was being set up with stages for some event or another.

It was a day of rest. I wanted to be in good shape for my Pompeii exploration the following day.
