The ferry from Civitavecchia to Cagliari was 15 1/2 hours but comfortable and pleasant, especially since I splurged on a reasonably-priced cabin. Here’s the first look at Cagliari: I checked into the delightful Palazzo Fulgher, a beautifully restored and decorated old villa right in the center of town. While waiting for my travel companion, Chiew, to arrive I ambled around the old streets. It was a lot easier to get my bearings than in Rome. The following day, we set out to explore the Castello district, high over the city with medieval streets winding around towers and walls, opening on to sweeping views of the city. That night I discovered the Sardinian pasta known as fregula, often served with seafood and bottarga. Yum!

Cagliari’s Archaeological Museum was the perfect follow up to yesterday’s visit to Su Nuraxi. The museum displayed a number of finds from the neolithic period through the nuraghic and on to the Romans. Particularly interesting were the bronze figurines from the nuraghi and the clay fertility goddesses from the same period. It was well displayed with explanations in English. In the afternoon we caught a train to Iglesias. (Contrary to stereotype, I found Italian trains and buses highly reliable and comfortable). The town seemed curiously underpopulated but it was a center of Spanish rule and the medieval Pisan and Spanish architecture made it worth a stop.

It took four buses to get from Cabras to Alghero which sounds more complicated than it was. The buses came like clockwork: Cabras-Oristano-Macomer-Sassari-Alghero. No changing of stations; just get off one bus and on to another and watch the scenery go by. The Zia Amalia Villa Asfodelo (what a stupid name. Who can remember it?) was ideally located near the bus stop and the old town. The room was slightly musty but the hospitality was first-rate. We were immediately taken with the walled Spanish town and spent several hours wandering the streets. Even though there were plenty of shops (mostly selling red coral from the Red Sea which is apparently legal), somehow the medieval palaces remained as impressive as ever. Even better was a walk along the port. But the piece de resistance was a walk along the bastions at sunset. After a morning stop at another Chinese merchant for more cheap but necessary stuff, we boarded an afternoon boat for “Neptune’s Cave” despite the chilly, cloudy skies. It was exhilarating to be on the sea and the cave was majestic. It was like the backdrop to a Russian ballet. I could easily imagine white tutus to come fluttering from … Continue reading →