Like Paris there are layers and layers in Istanbul. Beyoglu is the European neighborhood built when French style set the standard. The stately shopping boulevard, Istiklal, is now a mishmish of brands like Darty, Gap, Starbucks, Benetton housed in restored 19th century busy-ness buildings. The covered passages alongside recall the same in Paris. In a total contrast is the working class suburbs of Uskudar on the Asian side across the Bosphorus. Here the style is much more traditional. Trench coats with full head scarves are a must for the stylishly devout. I was looking forward to the Spice Bazaar but it was so crowded I foot like I was being pressed into a Turkish confection.

The Galipoli battlefield tour was fascinating on several levels. The unspoiled landscape of cliffs, green hills and sandy beaches was spectacular. If it wasn’t a graveyard it would surely be a string of beach resorts. As the site of a tremendous Turkish victory led by Ataturk, the peninsula is venerated by Turks who have very generously shared memorial space with their hapless attackers. On the tour were several Aussies with a personal connection to the battle. One read from the battle diary of his grand uncle. Another visited the grave of his aunt’s fiancee. She never married, he said, but devoted all her thwarted love to him and his siblings, exerting a profound influence on his life. Nine months of battle; one half million casualties and 130,000 dead on both sides.

New rule: When visiting one of the cruise industry’s sacred spots, wait until the season is well and truly finished. Our overly jocular guide assured us that we were lucky to encounter “only” one cruise ship but Ephesus was still jammed with sweaty tourists. Mary’s House was a zoo. I wished for fewer visitors on the “Wishing Wall”. Others wished for “sleep”. Still, the visit sparked my interest in the time and place where Artemis ceded to Mary and the earliest Christians set up shop in the heart of the Roman empire. Life was good in Epheses: indoor hot and cold running water, indoor latrines, servants, lots of parties for Artemis and her god friends, rich and famous visitors, the finest artists. It was the New York of the Roman Empire. My hotel Jimmys Place, had a comprehensive collection of historical articles. A tranquil visit to the St Jean Basilica drifted me back to Biblical times. The 15th century Isa Bey mosque right next door was also a haven.