Category Archives: Central Asia

Bukara First Look

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It’s great that the Hotel Mukhlisabegim, despite its modest rooms, is located just steps from the Lyabi Hauz square. This pretty square centers around a small pond. Bukhara is indeed an oasis city which made it a vital stop on the Silk Road. So I decided to just wander around for a bit this morning. Since I have time there’s no need to rush around checking sites off a list. I strolled just about a hundred meters west and came to a peaceful spot centered around the Gaukushan Medressa. It’s right along one of the canals that was used to drain what had been the swamps of old Bukhara. It was nearly empty as it’s not one of the more famous spots but it’s still quite attractive. Soon I found myself in the ancient covered bazaars of Taki Sarrafon, Taki Telpak and Taki Zargaron. The crafts on display in Bukhara are amazing. They do not display a lot of junk from China and India as they are quick to point out and they are also happy to be honest about whether something is machine made or handmade. Anyway it’s obviously authentic because there are a lot of variations in the … Continue reading →

Bukhara Crafts and Holy Places

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I awoke to a decidedly gray grim and chilly day. I checked the weather report for Khiva and it looked like it was even colder there and just as gray. Now it doesn’t seem like such a gigantic fail to have not worked Khiva into my itinerary. In fact for a gray and miserable day Bukhara is probably the best place in the country to be. There’s so much to see! First stop was the 16th-century Synagogue which was right around the corner. I was also fascinated by the ancient Caravanserai which once welcomed caravans. Now they host–what else–craft shops! As the forecast indicated that it would clear up later on, I decided to spend the good part of the day again going over Bukhara’s endlessly fascinating crafts scene. The problem that Bukhara has, and I think it’s shared by a lot of other countries with indigenous crafts, is that a lot of the styles don’t quite work in the west. I had thought of buying a small carpet but again the colors just didn’t seem to really go with my bedroom. A lot of the beautifully embroidered jackets and vests and light coats seemed to have colors that were … Continue reading →

End of the Silk Road

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It was pouring rain when I woke up in Bukhara. I was informed that the wet weather was most unusual for this time of year. I packed and headed to the markets to pick up some jewelry I had scoped out in the last few days and bought some snacks for the train journey back to Tashkent. I had arranged with the taxi driver who took me around yesterday to drive me to the train station but he didn’t show up! It was a mad scramble but the owner of the Mukhlisabegim guesthouse quickly arranged for another driver and walked with me through the pouring rain to the taxi stop. The train was nearly full but it was a comfortable enough six-hour ride to Tashkent. I arrived late and check into the Rooms Inn Hotel a new, modern and comfortable place. It was still pouring the following day which discouraged further sightseeing in Tashkent. I headed over to the Abulkasim Medressa which had been turned into an artisan’s school. I planned to buy a carved walnut box but the size wasn’t right for its purpose so I bought a lovely hand-painted miniature that fit well into my suitcase. Then I … Continue reading →