The first thing I noticed this morning and looking out the window was that wind was blowing through the palm trees. The breeze got stronger as I walk to the river. What a pleasure! I felt that I could finally explore the town on foot which, after Bangkok, I didn’t think I was going to be able to do. Travel Arrangements I immediately decided that I would stay on an extra day in Phnom Penh and take the bus directly to Siem Reap on Tuesday. First stop was the tourist office on the river. The gentleman couldn’t be more cheerful and helpful, like all Cambodians I have met so far. The city map was extremely well done and he was well-versed in events around town. I learned that the Kings Coronation Day, although important, did not mean that museums & sites would be closed. Good news! He also advised me to be down at the riverfront at 7 p.m. to see the fireworks. Work before pleasure though. I needed to arrange my bus ticket to Siem Reap and the ticket office was a couple of kilometres away near the river port. By the River The Riverside Promenade was busy with … Continue reading →

I boarded the Giant Ibis bus at 9:45 this morning and was pleased to find that the bus was new, modern, air-conditioned and not crowded. It even had WiFi We headed out of town and eventually found ourselves heading north on a two-lane paved Road. It was a great way to see a bit of rural Cambodia from the comfort of the bus. On the Road Here are some of the things I noticed: Bright new mosques. Could they be courtesy of the Saudi Arabians? Fish farming Every village seem to have a bright new two-story building painted in bright colors. I suppose it may have been courtesy of international Aid agencies but the buildings looked curiously empty. (N.B. In a later conversation in Don Khone, I learned that they were probably constructed by the villagers with money from the sales of logs. I learned that Cambodians will sacrifice everything, even proper meals, to build a home. Cambodian People’s Party signs were everywhere. They certainly weren’t campaign posters because this is a one-party state. I suppose that it was to remind the villagers that the Cambodian people’s party was keeping an eye on them. Very skinny cows and very sturdy … Continue reading →

Although exhausted from the day before I had bought a two day pass and I intended to use it. Besides, I was determined to see Preah Khan. This time I left at 8.30am, a more reasonable hour, and headed for the “grand circuit”. No guide today; just me and a tuk-tuk driver. Preah Khan The first and best stop was Preah Khan, an extraordinary spot where the full meaning of “jungle kingdom” became evident. Stretching over 50 hectares, Preah Khan was an ancient city of 100,000 people and included a monastery and a buddhist university.  There weren’t even that many other tourists. It was pure enchantment The interior was not as rich in sculpture as the temples but there were still some fine examples.. I spent some time just outside listening to the symphony of bird cries emanating from the giant trees devouring the crumbling stones. Neak Pean Affiliated with Preah Khom, Neak Pean is a temple in the middle of an artificial lake, accessed via walkway over a real lake. Ta Som Dedicated to the Kings’ ancestors, tiny Ta Som is also a striking contest between stone and jungle. East Mebon It’s from the 10th century. Khmer builders learned … Continue reading →