Category Archives: Southeast Asia
Arrival in Bangkok
Atlanta Hotel I got to the Atlanta Hotel in about a half an hour from the airport. The weather is cloudy but steamy. The neighborhood is quiet and I had a great meal at a nearby Egyptian restaurant, called Alexandria. The room is basic but quite large. Really it’s the art deco Lobby that’s the claim to fame. And the swimming pool Which is at its best in the evening. And the turtles! Change of Plans In walking through the town I was baffled by the fact that everyone was wearing black. It turns out that this is the biggest commemoration in Thailand’s history. Their beloved King died about a year ago and tomorrow will be the commemoration of his death. In fact he will be cremated near the Grand Palace which I was going to visit tomorrow. Big change of plans! I would like to figure out a way to participate but I’m not sure how I will do it. It should be interesting.
Continue reading →The Kings cremation in Bangkok
This is the biggest day in Thailand since Anna met the King of Siam. King Bhumibol was kind of like God but less divisive. I don’t know what figure in America, dead or alive, could inspire this kind of unqualified devotion. Maybe George Washington? When I asked at the hotel where would be the best place to participate in this commemoration, I was directed to go to flower park (Pak Klong Talat) which I did. I got at the end of an extremely long line but I didn’t know how long at the time. The goal was to pay respects at a temple that only appeared to be close. Everyone was in black and I appeared to be the only Westerner among about a quarter million mourners. People were incredibly nice, smiling at me and offering signs of encouragement. I think they’ve been working on the organization of this event for about a year. It’s extremely impressive. There are young people offering iced water, offering sticks that seem to be smelling salts, offering even food to eat and all of it free. As it is incredibly hot and humid there are ambulances all over the place just in case people … Continue reading →
Thonburi, Bangkok
So I left the hotel at about 10 this morning. Most museums & sites were still closed: the Grand Palace, the national museum, the emerald Buddha – all closed. Seemed like a good idea to head to the river and look for a river tour. So I took the Metro to Saphan Taksin trying to figure out the complicated boat system. It turns out that the water was too high to take one of the Long Boat Tours that would go into the canals. It certainly looked very high. I don’t know what Bangkok will do with sea level rise. Anyway I wound up taking the orange boat line up the river. I wasn’t sure where I was going to get off but then I saw the striking towers of Wat Arun and decided to disembark there. Before before touring the temple I decided to take a stroll around the neighborhood which was on the other side of the river in the Thonburi section. Old Bangkok It was a revelation; a surprising step into old Bangkok. I walked up one of the Khlong (canals). It was quiet and overgrown with plants and trees. All you could hear were birds chattering … Continue reading →
From Bangkok to Phnom Penh
With a mid-afternoon flight scheduled, I couldn’t plan to do much today in Bangkok. Rather than battle with heat, humidity, crowds and traffic, I decided to do something close by and cool. A shopping mall! The nearest mall was Terminal 21 only two stops away on the SkyTrain. There was definitely enough to occupy me for 2 hours. There were seven floors about three of which were devoted to food courts. I wasn’t hungry and so bypassed the many delicious items on offer and occupied myself haggling over the price of some very lovely silk scarves and earrings. Fortunately the Don Muang airport also had a food court and I had time to chow down a spicy noodle soup with fish balls. The flight to Phnom Penh was uneventful but immigration was a hassle. The unsmiling immigration officers were like the progeny of the Khmer Rouge. On the long taxi ride into town through the outskirts, Phnom Penh displayed all the grim poverty of the third world. Unpaved streets, chaotic traffic, motorcycles, stores filled with cheap clothes, tire stores, auto parts stores, people dressed in rags sitting next to steaming bowls of soup or smoky grills selling their Wares to … Continue reading →