Global Traveller Blog

The Virtues of Under-Preparation

Posted on September 28, 2013 by JeanneSeptember 28, 2013

I used to appear before a judge who would snark to fumbling lawyers (never me!) “Well counselor, you’ve successfully avoided the perils of over-preparation”. The voice of Judge Rothwax floated through my head today as I realized I had no firm arrangements in place for the next week. That turned out to be a good thing as I now have no arrangements to cancel.

After a breakfast of crepe and honey on the rooftop terrace

I set off with Kemal, my unofficial guide for an orientation tour of Marrakech highlights. The medina was already stirring to life, meaning that motorcycles and bikes were swarming around like bees on meth. I kept wanting to stop in the souks and watch the carvers, leather workers and other artisans but no there was tourism to accomplish. Must hurry.

First stop was the Ben Youssef Madrasah with 130 tiny rooms for the 16th century students housed there in its heyday.

Then it was on to the Badia Palace which required some imagination to conjure up its former glory. Loved the view of Marrakech from the top. So do the storks.

I was ready to call it a morning but Kemal urged me on to the Bahia Palace. I walked into the elaborately tiled interior, slightly stunned by the crush of tourists. Before I knew it I was toppling over a curb onto my ankle. The pain was excruciating. A Dutch couple helped me outside where Kemal was waiting. He quickly found a taxi which deposited us at the main square but there was still a kilometer to walk to the road. Impossible. What to do? Resourceful Kemal found a guy with a kind of wheelbarrow and off we went!

So now it’s rest, ice, ibuprofen and satellite TV with a lot of channels that begin with Al. And not even any alcohol in the vicinity to take the edge off. I hope I can spend the rest of my time on the back of a camel.

Road to Marrakech

Posted on September 27, 2013 by JeanneSeptember 27, 2013

After a 3 hour flight, I was glad to relax over mint tea in the Riad Agdem right in the heart of the Medina. The little hotel has only been open 6 months so the traditional Moroccan style is brand new! The cinnamon and chocolate colors are cooling after the 30° heat outdoors. I think I’m in the harem suite.

Staying in the heart of the Medina is great because you can go outside and immediately get lost. Really, really lost. I knew I needed a strategy or I’d miss my home cooked dinner at the hotel and they’d find me years later looking like this:

I decided to take pictures of my route as I went along so I could consult my gallery and find my way back.

It sort of worked. I was quickly transfixed by shop after shop with jewelry, djellabas, tea sets, pottery, sandals, dates and many, many herbal-essence cures. There was so much to peruse. Contrary to my expectations, I was not given a hard sell and was left more or less in peace to wander.

My photo series helped a little in getting back but what really helped was showing a picture of a place I wanted to reach and asking how to get there.

Col de Tende: Circuit des Forts

Posted on September 23, 2013 by JeanneSeptember 23, 2013

The original plan was to do the hike as outlined in the Guide Randoxygene but I wound up eliminating the Fort Pepin branch as it was becoming late in the afternoon and altitude (2214m) was tiring me out.

We parked near the geographical Col de Tende sign at the Chalet-Bar-Restaurant Le Marmotte. and then began the hike at 11am Borne 340.

The road to Fort Central was a fairly wide track with gorgeous views over the mountains. It was a steady but easy climb, mostly in the sun. There was a breeze but the climb may be too hot in the heat of summer.

We reached Fort Central in about 20 minutes.

The climb continued and the views remained spectacular.

We got to Borne 335 at about 12.30.

We reached Fort Tabourde (Borne 335; alt 1982m) a few minutes later.

For about 30 minutes we continued along the ridge.

Then we turned into the valley and the path became steeper before we settled down to lunch in a grotto at about 1.30

We continued climbing through the valley on a steep path for about 45 minutes until reaching the main path. Huffing and puffing.

A few minutes later we reached Borne 337.

It took about 1 hr 40 minutes to descend to the starting point, arriving at 4.30.

Baisse de Peirefique

Posted on July 21, 2013 by JeanneJuly 21, 2013

Just before Casterino village (altitude 1543m), start out from balise 367.

This is a 4×4 track so follow the track and do not deviate. It climbs steeply but it’s an easy walk. For about 1 1/2 hours the walk is shaded by pines.

Then the track passes through a wide open area of meadows including a dairy farm.

And then 1/2 hour later you reach the top (balise 370; 2040m altitude) with views over the surrounding peaks and down to Casterino. There are also some Army bunkers dating from WWII as this is close to the Italian frontier. For a picnic place I went about 500m further following the road to the Peirefique lakes and climbed a small mound. The track meets a road and there’s a small parking area.

It took me two hours to climb and about 1 1/2 hours to descend both at a very slow speed!

Lac de Grenouilles

Posted on July 15, 2013 by JeanneJuly 15, 2013

From Casterino village drive about 2km to the parking area at Balise 395. Altitude of about 1700m

At first the route is shaded by mimosas.

Climb along a rough track for about 1 1/2 hours to reach the Lac de Grenouilles. Altitude of 1994m.

The route has nice views and is mostly sunny with patches of shade. Lots of wildflowers plus this strange fungus:

What is it?